Silver gilt (vermeil)
Silver gilt is silver covered with a surface layer of gold. The French term vermeil is used especially for gold plated sterling silver in modern jewellery. The term describes a combination of materials, not solid gold.
Core and surface
The gold layer may be applied by different gilding processes and can wear on exposed areas. Silver may then show at edges, clasps and high points. Cooper Hewitt describes vermeil as a gold plated finish on sterling silver, while The Met distinguishes it from gold plate on a base metal.
What should be checked?
Look for both silver fineness marks and information about gilding. Gold colour alone proves neither gold content nor a silver core. An object may be partly gilt, regilded later or assembled from several metals. Avoid aggressive polishing because it can remove a thin gold layer.
Sources
The Met Store: Jewelry Glossary; Cooper Hewitt: vermeil in jewellery.
