Vintage watches: what determines value and what should you look for?
Vintage wristwatches range from enjoyable everyday watches to highly sought-after collectibles. Age alone does not make a watch valuable. Brand, model and reference, movement, originality, condition, service history and documentation must be considered together.
At Østlandet Brukt & Antikk we regularly encounter Swiss vintage watches, military watches, gold watches and more everyday models. This guide explains what to examine if you have inherited, found or bought an older watch, or are considering selling one. You can also read our guide to Certina DS and Double Security.
1. Brand, model and reference
The name on the dial is a starting point, but the exact model and reference are often essential for precise identification. Watches from the same manufacturer can differ greatly in value depending on model, production period, movement, execution and rarity.
2. Mechanical, automatic or quartz?
A mechanical watch is powered by a mainspring and wound manually; an automatic watch winds through movement. Quartz watches use an electronic movement, usually battery-powered. Movement type matters for identification, but mechanical does not automatically mean valuable.
3. Originality can matter more than a shiny appearance
Collectors often place great importance on originality. A dial with natural ageing may be more desirable than one that has later been refinished. The same can apply to hands, crown, bezel, bracelet and other components.
4. Be careful with polishing
Polishing removes a small amount of metal. Repeated or heavy polishing can soften originally sharp case lines and weaken stamps or other details. If a watch may have collector value, have it assessed before major cosmetic restoration.
5. A running watch is not necessarily in good mechanical condition
An older mechanical watch may tick and keep time while still requiring service. Oils may have dried, seals may be old and components worn. Service history can therefore be useful documentation.
6. The dial is important
Typography, logo, markers, luminous material and ageing can provide clues about age and originality. A refinished or repainted dial can significantly affect collector interest. Natural patina is not necessarily a defect.
7. Case material may have value of its own
Some watches have solid gold or silver cases, while others are plated, gold-filled or steel. Marks such as 585 and 750 may indicate 14 and 18 carat gold respectively. A gold watch should not automatically be valued only for its metal; maker, model, movement and collector interest can make the complete watch more important.
8. Box, papers and provenance
Original box, warranty papers, purchase receipts, service records and other documentation can help identify and document a watch. On some models, completeness also affects collector interest.
9. How do you find a realistic value?
High asking prices online are easy to find, but an asking price is not the same as a completed sale. A sound assessment should compare actual sales of the same reference or closely comparable examples wherever possible. Condition, originality, case material, movement, size, service, documentation and the current market all matter.
Examples handled by OBA
Our auctions and shop have included a Longines Sport Chief from around 1960, a Girard-Perregaux ladies' watch with a 585 gold case, a Certina DS Nautic and an Elgin military watch marked ORD. DEPT. U.S.A. They illustrate how different models, mechanisms and histories need different comparisons.
A documented pocket-watch result
An antique pocket watch in a glass display case started at NOK 1,000. After 33 bids, it reached a hammer price of NOK 5,250 at OBA. This is the result for that individual lot, before buyer's premium and shipping.
A previous result is a comparison point rather than a valuation of another watch. Model, originality, condition, documentation and the sale date should be considered.
Read how timegrapher readings are interpreted, or browse available wristwatches. Contact us with details of a watch you are considering selling.
Do you have an old watch?
If you have inherited an older wristwatch, pocket watch or watch collection, it can be worthwhile identifying it before restoration, polishing or sale. Østlandet Brukt & Antikk buys and assesses vintage watches and collectibles. Clear photographs of the front, back, crown, bracelet and any marks or papers make an initial assessment easier. Contact us through obaantikk.no.
